How to Choose Quality Men’s Shoes

Editor's Note: This is a guest post from Grant Harris. Grant is Owner and Chief Style Consultant at Image Granted, LLC; a Washington DC based Image Management company dedicated to solving the complex image, style & fashion issues of individuals, groups & organizations of men. Learn more about Image Granted, LLC at imageconsultant4men.com.

Unfortunately, most men think of footwear as a necessary evil instead of a source of expression, style, and confidence. A man’s shoes should be an extension his personal taste, his personality, and his lifestyle. While these are individual factors, there are several things every man should look for in a quality shoe to buy as an essential piece of his wardrobe. Take our advice and your feet will thank you.

Footwear Construction

Buy shoes made of 100% leather. Leather is the optimal material for shoes. It breathes, molds to the wearers foot, holds up well in different climates, and creates a longer lasting shoe that gets better with time. Avoid man made materials and rubber shoes. While they may be comfortable to start, everyday wear and tear and the heat created from the friction of walking will eventually breakdown the materials and you will end up with an ill-fitting shoe.

Look for shoes with a Goodyear welt – the piece of leather running along the outside edge of the sole. This is where the shoe takes the heaviest beating. It should be hand-stitched and sewn and not glued or fused. The closer and finer the stitching the more formal the shoe and the better the quality. Shoes with a slim and sleek sole are more formal while thick and heavy soles are reserved for informal and casual wear.

Goodyear Welt construction

Hand sewn Welt (Courtesy of Gentlemanscorner.com)

Buy a shoe with a round toe. Avoid all square toe and pointed shoes. The round toe accommodates the majority of body types and is a classic shape. The square toe not only looks juvenile; it will shorten the length of the leg and make a man look shorter than he is. The pointed toe is an over the top fashion statement that is better kept for the models and runways than in the professional environment.

Round Toe

Square Toe

Choose between open or closed laced. Open laced shoes have two separate pieces of leather sewn on opposite sides of the uppers of the shoe that close together when laced. Closed lace shoes are made from one piece of leather split into a “V” shape that are joined at the vamp and closed together when tied. Open laced is considered casual while closed laced is more professional.
 

Footwear Maintenance

It’s not enough just to buy the right shoe. A man must know how to protect his investment. Just like taking care of a car your shoes should be well maintained. Smooth leather dress shoes should always be polished to enhance the patina. Suede shoes should be brushed regularly with a suede brush. All shoes and boots should be stored in a cool, dry place with shoe trees (cedar is best) to maintain the form of the shoe to the foot. Never wear the same pair of shoes two days in a row and wear galoshes to stay dry in the rain and snow. Visit your local cobbler and ask him to put taps on your toes. They will add years to the life of your shoes. Get the plastic ones to keep people from hearing you coming a mile away.

Kiwi Shoe Polish

Shoe Taps

If these simple techniques are applied properly, a man will have a quality selection of shoes that will last a lifetime and give him years of enjoyment.